Tasting
Terroir in Napa Valley Wines
by Marisa D'Vari
Are you a globe-trotting wine drinker?
American cities sizzle with hot
spots where you can sip Portuguese
vinho one night, and pop open a
Spanish Cava sparkler on another.
So go ahead, play the international
field. Flirt with exotic hotties
from faraway lands. Just take a
moment to appreciate our own wine
heritage and where it all began:
California's Napa Valley.
Before 1960,
few Americans drank wine. Of those
who did, "Old World" regions
of France and Italy were the order
of the day. Robert Mondavi and his
Napa Valley brethren popularized
the concept of drinking wine from
the Napa Valley and put the region
on the cultural map.
Today, Napa
is a destination onto itself. Just
a few scenic hours from San Francisco,
Napa offers some of the best restaurants
in the world, incredible resorts,
and the rare opportunity to taste
wine standing in vineyard where
it was grown and made.
"This is what I love about
the Napa Valley," says Sean
Kagy, chef owner of One Restaurant
& Lounge in Mason, Ohio. "You
can take a tour of the vineyards
and winery, actually touch the grapes,
meet the winemaker, and then taste
the finished wine in the tasting
room." Even better, you can
relive the experience over and over
again in Cincinnati's Napa-friendly
restaurants.
Burke Morton,
sommelier at Pigall, says that the
restaurant frequently entertains
customers who have just returned
from the Napa Valley and would like
to recall their trip with a bottle
of Napa Valley wine. One of his
favorite Napa wines on the list
is Karen Work's boutique Napa Valley
Sauvignon Blanc, a wine that has
the kind of high acidity and fresh
floral aromas that marries well
with Chef/Owner Jean-Robert's Fingerling
potatoes and sea beans.
Sometimes, chefs have a pairing
in mind when they create a dish.
For example, Chef Sean Kagy of One
Restaurant likes Napa wines because
they are fruit-forward, and for
that reason pair quite nicely with
dishes on his "redefined modern
American cuisine" which offer
many fruit components. "Beyond
that," Kagy says, "they
are a good value. I have some excellent
Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc wines
from Cakebread and Silvarado, along
with some top Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa wines from the 1990's, a decade
that had one of the best growing
seasons ever."
Daveed Cook, owner and executive
chef at Daveed's in Mount Adams,
Ohio, also offers several outstanding
and affordable Napa Valley wines
on the menu. "Many people enjoy
white wine, so I have offer many
Napa Chardonnays and a few Sauvignon
Blancs," says Cook, suggesting
that guests try a 2002 Silverado
Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc with a
dish such as his Peekytoe crab salad
or tempura oysters with Meyer lemon.The
light, aromatic, citrus notes in
that wine works well with these
dishes, providing refreshing acidity.
For his delicious, buttery-textured
Scottish salmon (the fish is slow-braised
in a chardonnay stock) Cook recommends
the oaky, fuller-bodied 2003 Chardonnay
from Stags Leap Winery.
Chris Meutsch of Wine Cellar Innovations,
a firm helping wine aficionados
nationwide build their cellars,
says that many of his customers
stock up with cases of wine from
the Napa Valley. "Often they'll
fly out to meet with the wine makers
and taste from the barrels, returning
home with thousands of dollars in
wine."
Happily, you don't have to be a
famous jet-setter to meet the wine
makers and tour the wineries in
Napa. Just make a reservation. You
will find one-stop shopping at http://www.napavintners.com/,
where you can find wineries arranged
by category and by city along with
clear-cut, helpful information such
as the kind of tours that are available,
the fee (if any), and how to register.
If your goal is just to picnic on
the grounds, find out whether your
dog is allowed, and whether food
is available for purchase, the site
will give you this information as
well.
Of course, if you want that insider
experience consider attending the
charity-centric, four-day Napa Valley
Wine Auction held this year June
5-8, 2008. In addition to having
a paddle to wave at the Auction,
your donation includes scores of
hospitality events including intimate
lunches or dinners with winery owners
in their estates, barrel tasting
of young wine, open house events
where you can visit dozens of Napa
wineries and be welcomed with delicious
wine and cuisine, and the popular
Taste of Napa extravaganza featuring
cuisine from the best restaurants
in the valley.
Alternatively, you can play armchair
traveler by visiting Napa Valley
winery websites (accessible via
links from http://www.napavintners.com/).
Many sites now feature audio interviews
with the winemakers as well as short
films that give you a sense of the
winemaker's philosophy and even
show you some of the steps involved
in wine making. Then, go to Pigall
or One Restaurant or Daveed's and
ask the sommelier or your server
to suggest the perfect Napa Valley
wine to complement the entrée
of your choice. Reflect on what
you've seen and experienced in your
virtual or real Napa Valley travels,
and as you take that first sip,
raise your glass in salute to America's
premiere wine region.
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